Amsterdam to Basel
For his 80th Birthday Celebration, Bob wanted to go on a European river cruise. We chose Avalon Waterways on the Rhine & Mosel Rivers sailing from Amsterdam to Basel. Then.... our departure?... pandemic. 2020 was cancelled. 2021 was cancelled. When we needed to pay the balance for 2022 -which made it non refundable - the cruise news was not pretty - many passengers stuck on ships in quarantine. 2023 it is instead. We're delighted our friends Michael & Delta join us.
With thanks to Delta for allowing us to post a few of her images as well.
Suites 52 - Staterooms 12 - Crew 37 - Passengers 92 this sailing -- Length 361 ft
AMSTERDAM, The Netherlands - June 22
Embarcation
A 45 minute mid morning train journey from Rotterdam to Centraal Station in Amsterdam dropped us close to the ship embarcation point. We walked over, checked in, unpacked and investigated the shipboard amenities. Michael & Delta (Bob's cousin & our friends) also arrived and we enjoyed a catch-up. So far we like everything about our river cruise choice.
The ship propeller was damaged on the last journey = we departed before dinner for a local shipyard in Dordrecht for repairs rather than staying put. The next morning we took buses back to the city for our canal cruise/tour.
AMSTERDAM - June 23
UNESCO World Heritage description: "The Amsterdam Canal District illustrates exemplary hydraulic and urban planning on a large scale through the entirely artificial creation of a large-scale port city. The gabled facades are characteristic of this middle-class environment, and the dwellings bear witness both to the city’s enrichment through maritime trade and the development of a humanist and tolerant culture linked to the Calvinist Reformation. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Amsterdam was seen as the realization of the ideal city that was used as a reference urban model for numerous projects for new cities around the world."
KÖLN/Cologne, Germany - June 24
Cologne Cathedral of St. Peter - UNESCO World Heritage description: "Begun in 1248, the construction of this Gothic masterpiece took place in several stages and was not completed until 1880. Over seven centuries, successive builders were inspired by the same faith and a spirit of absolute fidelity to the original plans. Apart from its exceptional intrinsic value and the artistic masterpieces it contains, Cologne Cathedral testifies to the enduring strength of European Christianity. " Note-cc photos (creative commons) are in the public domain.
THE MOSELLE/Mosel - June 25
We travelled through more than 60 locks on the cruise - some lifting us up - some dropping us down. Ship height is determined by the bridges we go under - ship width & length is dictated by the smallest lock on the river.
COCHEM
The Church of St. Martin - est. 1130 CE - rebuilt1456 - rebuilt 1933 - destroyed 5 Jan1945 - Rebuilt from the rubble 1959.
Cruising the Mosel
TRIER - June 26
UNESCO World Heritage description: 'Trier, which is located on the Moselle river in the West of Germany, was a Roman colony from the 1st century A.D. and then a great trading centre in the beginning of the next century. There is no place north of the Alps where so many important Roman buildings and such a concentration of traces of Roman settlement have been preserved as in Trier, the “Rome of the North”. In late classical times, Trier was one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire; it was the seat of the prefects of Gaul, Germania, Britannia and Hispania and after the imperial reforms of the Emperor Diocletian was the seat of the vice-emperor (Caesar) of the Western Empire.'
Karl Marx (1818 - 1883) From the descriptor plaque:
"Karl Max is the most famous son of the city of Trier. Like no other, he analyzed the unprecedented dynamics of his own time and criticized growing inequality and exploitation. The 'Manifesto of the Communist Party' and 'The Capital' are today part of the UNESCO's Memory of the World Register. The recognition of his life's work beyond legends and ideological appropriation is of great concern to the city of Trier. His ideas were abused in the 20th century for the establishment and justification of dictatorships. His cause for thought can still serve today to refine our vision of the problems of modern times."
Founded by the Celts in the late 4th century BC and conquered 300 years later by the Romans, Trier is considered Germany's oldest city. In June 1940 over 60,000 British prisoners of war, captured at Dunkirk and Northern France, were marched to Trier, which became a staging post for British soldiers headed for German prisoner-of-war camps. Trier was heavily bombed and bombarded in 1944.
Hohe Domkirche St. Peter zu Trier / Cathedral of Saint Peter -- It is the oldest church in Germany and the largest religious structure in Trier, notable for its long life span and grand design. The central part of the nave was built of Roman brick in the early fourth century, resulting in a cathedral that was added onto gradually in different eras.
Liebfrauenkirche / Church of Our Lady -- A Roman double church originally stood here. According to the church parish website, the Roman Emperor Constantine (272–337) made a large endowment in 326 AD that led to the first church construction there. After the southern portion had become dilapidated by around 1200, the Archbishop of Trier hired French builders from Champagne, who completely replaced it with the Early Gothic Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauen). It is, according to UNESCO, "the earliest church built in French High Gothic style outside France." The stained glass windows were destroyed during WWII - these are modern.
Aula Palatina - "Roman palace basilica and an early Christian structure built between AD 300 and 310 during the reigns of Constantius Chlorus and Constantine the Great. Today it is used as the Evangelical Church of the Redeemer. The basilica contains the largest hall from antiquity - it has a length of 67 m, a width of 26.05 m and a height of 33 m."
We tie up to shore for an unstructured afternoon. The ship carries bikes and there are paths along the river. We don't have a pool - but there is a hot tub. Here's the only user we saw the entire cruise.
BERNKASTEL - June 27
Our favourite medieval town - although they are all starting to look similar.... It's the heart of Riesling wine production in the Mosel Valley. Doctor Vineyards are world famous with a matching price tag.
The city's oldest wine cellar & bar
When the populace didn't generally read, signage was creative
This was the Jewish quarter - plaques honor the families that owned the homes. The right side of the street was widened and rebuilt - the larger paving stones delineate the old street. The plaques say the people died fleeing the bombardment of 14 January 1945.
The medieval town center - 1606 CE - with the courthouse & St Michael's fountain. Now mostly restaurants & shops.
Spitzhäuschen: built in 1416, this distinctive building was originally built this way to allow for wagons to travel through the narrow alley running alongside the building. As well, tax payments in many cities in Germany were based on the area of the foundation of the building, which explains why “jettied” buildings were a common occurrence in medieval Germany, as taxes were not charged on wider upper levels. It's been home to a wine bar since the 1970s.
Lunch on the Sky Deck
KOBLENZ & THE RHEIN / Rhine - June 28
The Marksburg
The fortress was used for protection rather than as a residence for royal families. Of the 40 hill castles between Bingen am Rhein and Koblenz, the Marksburg was one of only two which has never been destroyed and the only one that has never fallen into disrepair.
Middle Rhine Valley
The UNESCO description: " The strategic location of the dramatic 65km stretch of the Middle Rhine Valley between Bingen, Rüdesheim und Koblenz as a transport artery and the prosperity that this engendered is reflected in its sixty small towns, the extensive terraced vineyards and the ruins of castles that once defended its trade."
The Lorelei - In the Rhine fairy tale of 1810, Lorelei appears as a distraught woman, sitting on a rock combing her long golden hair and luring the barges into their destruction. The Rhine, at the Lorelei is up to 82 feet deep and only 371 feet wide. Because this area is so deep and narrow, it is one of the most dangerous places in the World Heritage Upper Middle Rhine Valley
A few more of the 60 or so of the castles along this stretch of the Rhine.
HEIDELBERG - June 29
Heidelberg is located on the Neckar River in southwestern Germany - known for venerable Heidelberg University, founded in the 14th century. Gothic Heiliggeistkirche church towers over the cafe-lined Marktplatz, a town square in the Altstadt / Old Town. Heidelberg, unlike most German cities and towns, was spared from Allied bombing raids during the war as Heidelberg was neither an industrial center nor a transport hub and did not present a tactical or strategic target.
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle was the residence of the Palatine Counts and Electors from the House of Wittelsbach, who ruled the Palatinate of the Rhine from 1373 for over 400 years. The palace is a demonstration of their royal status and in its golden age rivaled the splendor of the imperial courts in Vienna and Prague. Prince-Elector Friedrich IV had the stately residential palace built between 1601 and 1607, on the pedestal of a previous medieval structure. The electoral family lived on the two top floors. The attic floor was reserved for the servants. In 1693, the Friedrich’s Wing was significantly damaged; it burned out in 1764.
Speyer
UNESCO World Heritage description: The cathedral of Speyer was founded in 1030 by Conrad II and reconstructed at the end of the 11th century by Henry IV. One of the most significant examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe, it influenced the development of architecture in the 11th and 12th centuries. It served as a burial place of German emperors for almost 300 years. It was seriously damaged by fire in 1689. The restoration works in the 18th century, closely following the original structure, are one of the earliest examples of monument preservation in Europe
STRASBOURG, France - June 30
UNESCO World Heritage description: "The Grande-Île and the Neustadt form an urban ensemble that is characteristic of Rhineland Europe, with a structure that centres on the cathedral, a major masterpiece of Gothic art. Its distinctive silhouette dominates the ancient riverbed of the Rhine and its man-made waterways. Perspectives created around the cathedral give rise to a unified urban space and shape a distinctive landscape organized around the rivers and canals."
THE BLACK FOREST / Breisach, Germany - July 1
Day trip to the Black Forest - two hours each way plus time at the folk museum. Glad we went - I'd skip it next time.
Farmstead of the District Governor
The Vogtsbauernhof is the only farm in the museum still standing in its original location. It was built in 1612. It represents the Gutach type of house which combines both living and working rooms, as well as animal stalls, under one roof. The largely wooden superstructure of the house usually rests on a basement made of natural stone. The half-hipped roof, with its sides sloping in all directions, reduces the wind loading area and reduces wear. The attic acts as a hayloft and is accessed via a ramp or a footbridge from the rising slope behind the house. The centre point of the living area was a centrally-sited stove. Heated from the kitchen, it simultaneously warmed the parlour as well as the bedrooms above.
Farewell Dinner
The wonderful people who made everything memorable in the best way possible.
Tomorrow morning we arrive in Basel, Switzerland ~ this part of the grand tour will be over.
It's been beyond our expectations.